Fashion flows in cycles.
It starts off with someone bold enough to pioneer a new style, drawing eyes and leaving their mark as a trendsetter. Then come those inspired by this new style of dress. Next are the copycats who match the clothing but not the style or charisma. Finally, there’s the slow decline as fashion trends slowly shift. In some cases, this cycle takes place over a few years. For the West African kaftan, it’s been ongoing for hundreds of years.
The origin of the kaftan is attributed to ancient Asia, though sources are somewhat contentious. Marked by long flowing robes and thick sleeves, this style quickly spread over the world, from Asia to Africa and even Russia. This allowed each culture to infuse this general base with their own unique twists. Byzantine emperors are said to have paired their kaftans with turbans. In West Africa, kaftans became elaborate displays of wealth, tribe, and identity, with many adorning them with different embroideries, layering them with the agbada, and pairing our kaftan suits with the occasional kufi cap called the fila. For hundreds of years kaftans have been in use all over West Africa in countries like Benin, Nigeria, Ghana, and more.
But something’s changed.
The Rise of the Suits
Suits have a less contentious origin, starting with the English King Charles II and slowly evolving over time to the style we know today: a jacket, trousers, and a waistcoat, along with matching accessories such as ties or pocket squares. Suits are a staple of men’s fashion in the West, dominating men’s formal wear in America, Britain, France, and other First World nations.
The thing about First World nations, more than the obvious power they have thanks to their resources, exports, and military power, is the influence they wield over foreign cultures. They influence the rest of the world through their distribution of entertainment, troops, and currency. And with time, this has only continued to expand in reach allowing their histories and influences to be cemented. This in turn gives rise to a significant influence on the thoughts and behavior of other countries, including fashion styles and trends.
It's almost easy for Western countries to determine what’s worth emulating around the world. And they’ve effectively done that with their western style suits.
Now, even among immigrants from West African countries living in Western countries, there’s a sense of hesitation when it comes to wearing traditional kaftans in settings not filled with people from shared backgrounds.
Why is that?
Returning to our Roots
Fashion is all about deciding whether you’re going to choose to fit in with the norm or ignore trends altogether to develop your own style. In this way, fashion mimics the experience of being an immigrant in another country. You can either fit in by abandoning certain critical aspects of your culture and history, or you can ignore the societal pressure and do your own thing. You can embrace your story. You can be bold. You can be a trendsetter.
The Cycle Begins Anew
Choosing to wear a kaftan over a suit doesn’t have to mean returning to the loose, baggier style of kaftan that used to be popular. It doesn’t have to only be limited to cultural events or heritage festivals. As fashion trends continue over time, styles adapt changing sensibilities. At AJADI, we’ve redesigned the traditional West African kaftan to achieve a more modern, elegant, and classy look. A look that can be rocked into any formal or even informal setting and make a bold statement.
This reimagining is a fusion of the traditional with the contemporary to create a look that is altogether more powerful, resetting the clock on how long the kaftan can be a mainstay in fashion for the next few centuries.
Choosing to wear suits over kaftans is an understandable choice. It’s just also the less interesting choice. The less bold choice. The more submissive.
West African men, historically, have had more passion and style than that. And with a newer, more modern take on the kaftan – you’re free to choose a style that brings that passion and culture to life, standing out in a world that chooses too often to conform. Dare to be free. Kaftan over suits.
